Wednesday, October 30, 2013

Backstraps & Tomato Gravy

My grandmother,  Mrs. Billie Tullos was born in Felsenthal, Arkansas.  However, Memaw has spent the majority of her 84 years on this Earth in the great state of Mississippi.  A state rich in history, both famous and infamous, but we'll take it.  When my parents got hitched, (Mom from MS and Dad from NC) my Dad didn't know a lick about hunting.  Deer hunting especially.  While becoming part of the Mississippi family, he was indoctrinated with a plethora of knowledge you can't find on Google or on any Facebook page.  Knowledge gained over a lifetime of hard work, tough morals and the practice of providing a growing family with a bountiful harvest straight from nature.   Lavell Tullos took my Dad under his wing and taught him everything.  Scouting, tracking, shooting, field dressing etc.  To this day my Dad is squeamish around blood, but you put him in the woods on a big whitetail deer, he'll clean it, skin it, quarter it and have it in the cooler before you even got the fire going.  The man is an artist.  Lavell, or Pap as the family called him, also taught my Dad to respect God's majestic creature that has just been sacrificed so that his family may be fed.  My Mom's two brothers- Mike the oldest and Joel the youngest also took a liking to my Dad.  They helped with the transfer and application of said knowledge.  This, in turn allowed me to learn from and become very close with my two uncles.  We don't just hunt for sport.  It's a family affair.  As years wore on and I grew older my Dad passed this knowledge down to me.  Along with it came stories, tradition and most importantly, recipes.  This recipe in particular is one of my favorites for several reasons: it's simply the best cut of meat from the monster buck you just smoked with your Winchester 270.  Tender, juicy cuts of meat running just along each side of the backbone.  Secondly, this isn't a meal you have once a week.  Being such a coveted piece of venison, it's more suited for holidays or parties where you can share this plate of Southern love with those you care most about.  They are these recurring themes of love, kinship and certainly FOOD that makes me proud of where I came from.  My Mississippi roots run pretty deep.  Lavell also played piano in a gospel harmonizers group in the 1950's, the McGee Harmonizers.  I have an ancient recording of them on CD.  Truly amazing.  I knew my love for bluegrass and gospel harmonies came from somewhere meaningful.  Always respect your elders, for they know the ways of the world.  Here is the recipe I'm happy to share and hope one day it finds it's way to your supper table:

2 Venison Tenderloins
1-2 cups AP flour
Desired seasonings (season salt & pepper)
White rice 
1 can diced tomatoes 
1/2 - 3/4 cup oil for frying
Cast iron skillet is best 


Procedure: 
Clean and rinse tenderloin thoroughly.  Trim any remaining silver skin.  Cut loin into medallions, uniformly for even cooking.  About 1/2 inch thick.  Mix desired seasoning with AP flour.  Dredge loin into seasoned flour.  (may use eggwash for more crunchiness but not absolutely necessary)  Heat oil in cast iron skillet using medium-high heat.  
Fry tenderloin in batches, don't overcrowd pan. Fry 1 minute on each side, or until they float.  Cook rice accordingly while frying.  Be careful not to let excess flour in pan get too brown.  After final batch, lower heat and drain about half the oil BUT NOT ANY PAN DRIPPINGS.















Add UNSEASONED flour to drippings and mix to make a Roux.  If too wet, add more flower, if too dry add butter.  After roux thickens and browns slightly add diced tomatoes and let marry.  Serve tomato gravy over rice.  Best if paired with green beans, okra or any other vegetable.

Finished product:

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